Sport Pilot Talk

Anyone using the Levil BOM? https://shop.levil.com/products/bom-with-adsb

It looks an ideal iPad companion for aircraft without an electrical system.

You can basically get everything except AOA with a Stratux for less than $200.

True, but the benefits of pitot-static redundancy and self-power are appealing, although perhaps unnecessarily expensive. I had a Stratux in my CT, and powered it through a power bank from the 12V accessory socket. I don’t know if I’ll have the luxury of recharging devices every night, but I may try to haul one of these: https://www.jackery.com/products/explor ... 9286022231

You're not going to fly that airplane in bad weather or at night. You don't need any instruments or redundancy. Just a Stratux and a couple of these batteries fully charged before you leave home.

https://www.amazon.com/EasyAcc-Portable ... 626&sr=8-6

Great idea! I used this with my Stratux: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S6LH8L/re ... RDbB785J2Y

Worked great, but wouldn’t last long running a Stratux, and recharging an iPad and iPhone for a week. I suppose a hotel or Airbnb every few nights is a good recharging strategy for both power banks and weary pilots!

So... next step is insurance.

Any recommendations? As a tailwheel E-AB, and with my limited tailwheel experience, I hope this isn't too painful!

For an E-AB, I'd always start with the EAA insurance agency (after all, Experimental is their first name). I have links on my website to the three insurance companies my students and graduates use:

http://avsport.org/acft/insure.htm

All three have both renter's and owner's policies.

Hambone wrote:So... next step is insurance.

Any recommendations? As a tailwheel E-AB, and with my limited tailwheel experience, I hope this isn't too painful!

You could do liability only.

Group effort we got a Flybaby to Oshkosh this summer for the 50 year anniversary.

A couple things from that trip.

Carry a setup for tail tiedown on starting. Chocked and parking brake on with nobody in the cockpit a single place A-65 airplane can go on it’s nose if the throttle is too far open. Tied at the tail leaf spring helps a lot. There are few people that can prop an airplane. I would rather always prop it myself and if someone wants to help have them hold the tail.

Carry a good set of tie downs and ropes. Make sure the airplane has some spot to tie to.

Dual Impulse Slick magnetos and shielded harness work great when using a handheld radio. They work very well for starting hot.

If you can tie the handheld into a real airplane antenna mounted to the airframe someplace it will help the range a lot.

Unless you are absolutely sure get the carburetor overhauled by someone who knows Stromberg carbs and what needles, seats are installed.

Run 11-15 lbs air in the main tires and check for any misalignment of the valve stems at each stop. If the wheel creeps it can shear the valve stem off. $$$

Make sure you have a good tailwheel, tight tailwheel horn to the rudder and the correct chains, springs. Be VERY particular about this and it will treat you well. I have had good luck with the Lang tailwheels as a replacement for the 2000 Scott. I tried a homebuilder ACS tailwheel on the Flybaby and it has worked out ok but is showing some looseness in the steering arm less than 50 hours in. Much cheaper than the Lang.

Check propeller bolt condition and correct torque. You will be going through some large humidity changes between Georgia and Tuscon.

Have a good cockpit cover ready to go in case you get stuck having to duck in someplace with weather and leave it tied out.

A bicycle dynamo with propeller on the side of the airplane makes 6V AC. Not too useful.

Sun protection is critical.

Check you can turn fuel off and on from the cockpit easily.

I ran Phillips XC20-50 in the A-65 without trouble. Also Aeroshell 100W.

MAKE SURE THE CARB HEAT IS WORKING!!! Usher makes some good carb heat boxes. Aircraft Spruce sells them and it’s cheaper/easier
than trying to repair a box. I like the Piper swivel fittings used on Cubs and Shortwing Pipers. They are expensive but work well for the carb heat arm.

It’s going to be a great trip. Just one leg after the other, don’t rush enjoy the scenery.

Cub flyer, good advice right down to the Lange tailwheel. It would be even better if someone has installed a Marvel carb.

I’ve had good luck with the Strombergs but the float height is critical. The rubber tip needles can swell up and make it quit so I would make absolutely sure that one is not installed. I have seen where the logs did not match so I would plan on having the carb checked unless absolutely sure the rubber needle is not in there. I’d plan on leaving the mixture wired full rich if one is installed. Even full rich it can lean somewhat as the air pressure changes so you won’t lose as much power.

If A-65 remember max cruise RPM is 2150. Check with optical handheld tach to make sure airplane tach is accurate. It’s a LOONG trip so even 25 RPM more if available is helpful.

I've always run the A-65's harder. I cruise at 2250 to 2300. Wide open throttle in level flight will turn up a little over 2500.

John Thorp used to say run the engine full throttle level flight, and record the RPM, then back off 10%. This equates to about 75% power.

I heard Steve Whitman talk about the Tailwind. When the first plans built Tailwinds were taking to the air, the people were unhappy with their performance, because they were running the engines within Continental's limits on RPM. Steve said that you need a smaller prop and to turn it in the 3500 RPM range. He said at most you will have a 10% reduction in TBO. For the average person flying 100 hours a year that means an overhaul in 15 years instead of 18.

Yes that is true for the 75,85,90,O-200 but the A-65 has different rods and they are subject to a max continuous RPM restriction of 2150

Different parts inside and different propeller. The Sensenich Prop is limited to 2300RPM based on laminations and diameter, If a 72CK42.

Take a look at the A-75 conversion. Same basic engine just turning higher RPM but there are internal and timing differences.

Wittman used C-85 and O-200 with his own props. Totally different parts

Cub flyer wrote:Yes that is true for the 75,85,90,O-200 but the A-65 has different rods and they are subject to a max continuous RPM restriction of 2150

Different parts inside and different propeller. The Sensenich Prop is limited to 2300RPM based on laminations and diameter, If a 72CK42.

Take a look at the A-75 conversion. Same basic engine just turning higher RPM but there are internal and timing differences.

Wittman used C-85 and O-200 with his own props. Totally different parts

Max continuous RPM for the A-65 is 2300, recommended cruise RPM is 2150 . Max RPM for the propeller is 2350. The rods do not have an RPM restriction of 2150. The same basic rod is used all the way up to the A-80 with a max RPM of 2700. The only differences in the rods for the higher RPM is a drilled rod cap to squirt oil in the opposite cylinder for cooling. The might also have a different bushing for a different piston pin. I said might, because some A-65's also use the smaller diameter heavy wall piston pin. They can also use the same piston as the A-75. I don't think I have come across an A-65 that did not have the drilled rods installed.

Thanks to all for the most useful information! I'm building a checklist from Cub flyer's Flybaby experience. I didn't realize such a simple engine could be so... not simple. The more I realize what I don't know, the more foolhardy this cross-country adventure seems!

The airplane is currently having its annual condition inspection done. I don't know which carb it has, or the state of the carb. I don't think the current owner knows either, so I'll have him ask the A&P doing the inspection, or the previous owner. I should perhaps do the pre-buy inspection. I let the previous owner (a highly experienced pilot) talk me out of it.

I did find a company willing to ferry it back, but it is very expensive. There's always the U-Haul solution, or I let this one go and try to find one closer to home.