How do I fix this?

[JJ Campbell]

I put too much force on the door while replacing the lock. How do I fix my fix?

[3Dreaming]

Looks like a little composite repair is in order. First I would check on the availability and cost of a new door. Sometimes I am pleasantly surprised at the cost, and replacing is easier than repairing.

Now how to repair. It will probably be easier to remove the door to take home for the repair, but it can be done in place. I know it will require the removal and installation of rivets. Remove the screws for the bracket. Glue the small piece back in place the best you can. Trace the corner and mark the holes in a template to be used later, and save the template. With a small grinder ( https://www.amazon.com/inch-angle-grind ... 6243570932 ) Also get some extra 2" quick change sanding disc 80-120 grit. Grind a small dished out area that extends beyond the damage by 1.5 inches. Cut a paper template that extends beyond the damage by 1/2", and a second that extends 1". Now get the fiberglass ready. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... 760-70.php . You might need a little additional cloth depending on the size of the repair. The kit comes with 2" tape. For a fiberglass repair the resins only purpose it to wet the fiberglass and hold it in place. Excess resin serves no purpose. I like to lay out some thin clear plastic sheet on the table, and I tape the corners in place. Then I cut a piece of fiberglass big enough to make both patches for the repair. Mix the epoxy and poor a little on the glass, and squeegee it out with an old credit card. The white looking cloth should look translucent now. Lay another piece of plastic over the cloth. Take you two paper templates and place them over the fiberglass and trace around them with a permanent marker. Now cut out the patches. Take the small one first and remove the plastic from the side that goes against the repair and place it over the damage. Remove the other layer of plastic. Do the same for the second patch. I normally have some aircraft fabric around that I place over the repair to help keep the edges down, but it is not necessary. let it cure, and do the same for the other side. Then you need a little filler primer and paint. Use the first template to re drill the holes for the bracket. If this is to much, you could probably remove the door and take it to a boat repair place and have it fixed there.

[JJ Campbell]

First I would check on the availability and cost of a new door...
I know it will require the removal and installation of rivets...
let it cure, and do the same for the other side...

I could replace the door but then I'd be missing a part of the blue and green stipes that go down the side. I think trying to match that might be harder than repairing the hole.

I pretty sure there are pins that go through the hinges. You can see one of them in the photo. I'll look again but I don't think rivet removal will be necessary.

You cannot see the damage from outside the plane with the door closed. The door has a double wall. My first hope was that the inner wall was removable but it is not. Since no damage is visible from outside the plane, could I take the screws out of the broken off piece and then use the repair kit you recommended to just anchor that back in place, drill two new holes and reattach the side hinge?

[3Dreaming]

The hinge pin is likely bent on both ends to keep it from coming out. Drilling the rivets might be easier. I didn't see that it was a hollow core on the door. Just do the repair on one side like I described above. You might want to add a third layer. The screws likely go into riv-nut threaded inserts. They will need replaced. Not sure whether they are metric or SAE, but it would be nice if you could find a tool to borrow.

[3Dreaming]

I got to thinking, and want to add, you should brush a light coat of resin on the door before you apply the first patch. This will help fill any small voids, but remember excess resin does nothing to add strength. I mentioned the aircraft fabric going over the last layer to help hold the edges down, after the resin cures it is peeled off giving a somewhat smooth, but textured like the weave in the fabric surface. In lay up processes this is called peel ply. Without the fabric you can use paper towels to soak up excess resin, but they do not get left on during the cure.

[JJ Campbell]

Thank you 3D!

[ShawnM]

Personally I'd cut an .063" or .090" aluminum plate about 1" larger than the hole and then rivet that over the damaged area. Paint it white again and then drill and install some rivnuts in the aluminum to re-mount the hinge. You can get an inexpensive rivnut kit at Harbor Freight.

Unless you know what type of resin the factory used for the door it's a guessing game. Some resins don't adhere well to other resins. Do you know if the factory uses epoxy, vinylester or polyester resin? If the surface areas are not prepared properly the bond may not be that strong. Epoxy resin is the best but the most expensive. It bonds to a lot of material.

Just my 2¢.....

[JJ Campbell]

Personally I'd cut an .063" or .090" aluminum plate about 1" larger than the hole and then rivet that over the damaged area. Paint it white again and then drill and install some rivnuts in the aluminum to re-mount the hinge. You can get an inexpensive rivnut kit at Harbor Freight.

Unless you know what type of resin the factory used for the door it's a guessing game. Some resins don't adhere well to other resins. Do you know if the factory uses epoxy, vinylester or polyester resin? If the surface areas are not prepared properly the bond may not be that strong. Epoxy resin is the best but the most expensive. It bonds to a lot of material.

Just my 2¢.....

I really like your suggestion, Shawn!

[ShawnM]

I just wanted to throw my solution out there. I don't know if you have any fiberglass experience or not but it's not for the faint at heart and it has a learning curve to get it right. 3Dreaming obviously has experience using glass but not everyone does.

You could even scuff up the fiberglass in the area you are going to cover with the aluminum plate and mix up some JB Weld 8265S and apply some to the back of the plate before you place it on the door. I'd even dip the rivets in the JB Weld and then insert them in your drilled holes before you pull them. This adds another layer of strength since you are pulling them in fiberglass and cannot get a rivet washer on the backside. Once the JB Weld cures I doubt it'll ever come apart again.

[JJ Campbell]

Thanks again, Shawn. These are great suggestions and much more in my comfort zone then the boat repair route.

[ShawnM]

Thanks again, Shawn. These are great suggestions and much more in my comfort zone then the boat repair route.

LOL, glad to offer up the suggestion, let us know how it goes.

[3Dreaming]

Shawn's idea will certainly work. But, if you are SLSA you need to give more consideration than to just whether it will work of not.

[JJ Campbell]

Personally I'd cut an .063" or .090" aluminum plate about 1" larger than the hole and then rivet that over the damaged area.

I found a piece of Sheet Metal 22 Gauge (.03125"). I only need a 2.75" square and the surface is flat. Will this work?

[ShawnM]

Personally I'd cut an .063" or .090" aluminum plate about 1" larger than the hole and then rivet that over the damaged area.

I found a piece of Sheet Metal 22 Gauge (.03125"). I only need a 2.75" square and the surface is flat. Will this work?

That's way too thin in my opinion and besides, it'll eventually rust. If you want to PM me your address I can send you a 2.75" square piece if you cover the shipping. I have a ton of it laying around.

[JJ Campbell]

That's way too thin in my opinion and besides, it'll eventually rust. If you want to PM me your address I can send you a 2.75" square piece if you cover the shipping. I have a ton of it laying around.

Thanks Shawn. I thought about the rust after I made my post and ordered a 12" square 0.09" thick piece of aluminum from Amazon which is arriving tomorrow. Darned if I know why I went to Home Depot - I always have more luck with Amazon.