Amps drop on cross-country flight

H. Paul Shuch is a Light Sport Repairman with Maintenance ratings for airplanes, gliders, weight shift control, and powered parachutes, as well as an independent Rotax Maintenance Technician at the Heavy Maintenance level. He holds a PhD in Air Transportation Engineering from the University of California, and serves as Director of Maintenance for AvSport of Lock Haven.

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Re: Amps drop on cross-country flight

Postby FastEddieB » Fri Jul 31, 2020 7:45 am

Just jumping in here...

I had a heck of a time with DUCATI voltage regulators. I can think of a handful of times where the problem was traced to the multi-pin connector.

One theory is that the design of the connector does not allow the connections to fully seat, limiting their current-carrying capacity if things are not “just so”. Evidence for this is had by looking at the wear on the male terminals, which only extends about half way down the spade. Perhaps this is the cause of excess heat that can manifest itself thusly:


Anyway, my John Deere voltage regulator - about $35 on Amazon - has worked perfectly so far. I did buy 3 and carry a spare with my just in case. I cut off the multi-pin connector and just went with the simplicity of individual spade connectors.


Of course only an option for E-LSA’s.
Fast Eddie B.
Sky Arrow 600 E-LSA • N467SA

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Re: Amps drop on cross-country flight

Postby ShawnM » Fri Jul 31, 2020 10:20 pm

fatsportpilot wrote:
ShawnM wrote:As I mentioned in an earlier post I installed the Silent Hektik voltage regulator on my E-LSA SportCruiser years ago and it's far superior to the Ducati. There is a Thermax brand temp strip on the right side of it (not seen in the photo) that reads from 149° to 199° and I've never reached the 149° mark yet. :mrgreen:

I think the John Deere and the Silent Hektik are the two most popular alternatives.

regulator and cap on firewall (Small).jpeg

What makes it far superior anyway? Is it just more reliable at high temperatures?

It uses modern components with better specs for a more stable output with higher amperage capabilities. It was also designed to work with today’s fancy batteries. The output is rock solid at 14.2 volts. And as Paul mentioned it’s design is better to help dissipate heat a whole lot better. The Ducati hasn't changed design in probably two decades or more and is using substandard components that can’t handle heat very well. While the Ducati does work if you keep it cool it’s just “old school” technology. Think if it like a flip phone and the Silent Hektik like the latest iPhone. :mrgreen:

And as Eddie noted, many failures come from poor connections that generate excess heat. This is where crimping the terminals closed a little for a tighter fit and use dielectric grease on the connector is best practice for a longer life span of the Ducati. When any problems start with the Ducati check the connector first and then the ground.

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