Hi BVrianh,
The key here is to open the bleeder at least 2 turns to get a good FAST flow and to have the reservoir open so it flows the same way. The CTSW has the same humped lines under the seat. I have never seen any air bubbles left in any line.
I usually flush each side, Then pump the hand or toe brakes fast and hard about 10 times. This usually moves any air bubble. Then I flush once more. I don't get any air bubbles. The key to a good easy flush is fluid volume and speed. With volume and speed the air is swept away and can not stay static in one place. Use a hand operated oil pump or something with a small volume and slow speed and the air bubbles just work around the fluid and don't get flushed down stream..
Brake Bleeding problem
Moderator: drseti
Re: Brake Bleeding problem
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
LSRM-A, Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
(520) 574-1080 (Home) Try Home First.
(520) 349-7056 (Cell)
Tucson, Az.
LSRM-A, Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
(520) 574-1080 (Home) Try Home First.
(520) 349-7056 (Cell)
Re: Brake Bleeding problem
Roger-
Can you share the Gobosh brake bleed procedure with us.
We've been trying to do this without avail for over 4 weeks now. Had to replace the manifold due to corrosion and a few master cylinders.
It's a PITA with the Gobosh setup.
Thanks.
Can you share the Gobosh brake bleed procedure with us.
We've been trying to do this without avail for over 4 weeks now. Had to replace the manifold due to corrosion and a few master cylinders.
It's a PITA with the Gobosh setup.
Thanks.
roger lee wrote:Whose brakes are they. There are different ways to bleed some brakes. The most common for most brake systems is from the bottom up. There are a couple of brake systems out there that take a special procedure and there is no written documentation to do it. The Gobosh is one of them.
Most systems should be bled from the nipple on the bottom of the caliper. The fluid is then pressurized up through the system into the reservoir.
The best and cheapest tool to do this can be had from Ace hardware. It is a 1 gal. pump up bug sprayer. Take off the front nozzle and just slide on some tubing. Pour the fluid in the pump, pump it up and attach the tube to the bottom of the caliper nipple. Then open the nipple on the caliper a couple of turns, press the trigger on the pump and the high speed fluid flow will flush out all air and charge the syste, Put an empty water bottle with a tube on it up on the reservior to catch the over flow. I usually waste maybe 1 ounce. The high speed flush carries air out. Using a slow hand operated oil can is too slow and many times leaves air in the system. The Ace pump is a bout $10 and well worth the money. I can bleed brakes in a few minutes this way. Give me an email address and I can send you a couple of pictures.
let me know whose brakes they are and I may be able to help.
Re: Brake Bleeding problem
Hi TailTouch,
The first problem with Gobosh brakes is the company used fuel hose for brake lines using corrosive Dot 4 fluid. (Idiots) That ate them up and caused a huge build up in every component in the system. The last one I did we stripped the entire system. Tore apart the 4 master cylinders to clean them and the calipers. All brake lines were replaced with real brake line. I must have cleaned out over a shot glass worth of decentagraded hose from all the components. My first Gobosh brake job was a 17 hr. ordeal. The cleaning was a pain, but the bleeding was a bigger one. Now I have the procedure down. This is not a brake bleed procedure that any have done and there is no published procedures. Why they set it up this way I'll never know.
There is too much to list here in this job and I'm sure you'll have questions. Please feel free to call me and I's sure I can help.
520-574-1080 in Tucson, AZ
The first problem with Gobosh brakes is the company used fuel hose for brake lines using corrosive Dot 4 fluid. (Idiots) That ate them up and caused a huge build up in every component in the system. The last one I did we stripped the entire system. Tore apart the 4 master cylinders to clean them and the calipers. All brake lines were replaced with real brake line. I must have cleaned out over a shot glass worth of decentagraded hose from all the components. My first Gobosh brake job was a 17 hr. ordeal. The cleaning was a pain, but the bleeding was a bigger one. Now I have the procedure down. This is not a brake bleed procedure that any have done and there is no published procedures. Why they set it up this way I'll never know.
There is too much to list here in this job and I'm sure you'll have questions. Please feel free to call me and I's sure I can help.
520-574-1080 in Tucson, AZ
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
LSRM-A, Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
(520) 574-1080 (Home) Try Home First.
(520) 349-7056 (Cell)
Tucson, Az.
LSRM-A, Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
(520) 574-1080 (Home) Try Home First.
(520) 349-7056 (Cell)
Re: Brake Bleeding problem
I can't believe I am 2+ years late to this discussion! Nevertheless, just for the record, here is how we bled the brakes (dual L/R system) on my 2007 Sting: We went bottom-up, using a big oil can "pump." But the trick (for my Sting at least) to getting all the air out was having one person remain in the cockpit, tapping on the four Master Cylinders (MCs) with a wooden dowel, during the bleeding process. The MCs (two for each wheel caliper) proved to be the bottlenecks preventing smooth removal of trapped air.
By the way, the first few years of Sting production utilized AJP MCs & calipers. AJP is now long-defunct and those parts (and re-build kits) are not easy to find--but I did! Fortunately, there are still lots of motorcycles (mainly Ducatis and "trials" bikes) out there that need them. More about that, coming up soon, right here.
Today, I was reviewing this and similar threads, because I will soon be replacing and/or rebuilding my entire brake system. After 3,700 landings, all four MCs are starting to leak and both calipers have one piston that is sticking.
But this time, I'm definitely going to have two weapons: Roger's 'ACE pressure pump'--and my trusty wooden dowels![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
By the way, the first few years of Sting production utilized AJP MCs & calipers. AJP is now long-defunct and those parts (and re-build kits) are not easy to find--but I did! Fortunately, there are still lots of motorcycles (mainly Ducatis and "trials" bikes) out there that need them. More about that, coming up soon, right here.
Today, I was reviewing this and similar threads, because I will soon be replacing and/or rebuilding my entire brake system. After 3,700 landings, all four MCs are starting to leak and both calipers have one piston that is sticking.
But this time, I'm definitely going to have two weapons: Roger's 'ACE pressure pump'--and my trusty wooden dowels
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Re: Brake Bleeding problem
With Piper Cherokee series aircraft you can have up to 5 master cylinders total. Bleeding the brakes can be a pain.
When pushing fluid from the bottom it is suggested to disconnect the bottom end of the master cylinder and place it in the horizontal position to allow the air bubbles to escape.
When pushing fluid from the bottom it is suggested to disconnect the bottom end of the master cylinder and place it in the horizontal position to allow the air bubbles to escape.
Re: Brake Bleeding problem
Fellow Sting Sport owners: Here's what you may need to know about your brakes: http://tinyw.in/469M